Soy Perfect uses Ecosoya Container Blend waxes. Below explains how to make soy candles.

EcoSoya™ Container Blend Waxes
EcoSoya™ Container waxes are all one-pour soywaxes requiring no additives that result in a smooth surface. CB-135 and CB-Pure Soy have excellent container adhesion while CB-Advanced Soy is designed to contract slightly away from the container. They have outstanding stability with no experienced shelf life in or out of candles. Old or partial candles may be remelted and the wax reused. EcoSoya™ waxes should be stored in a cool dry location away from direct heat, sunlight and moisture. Temporary extremes in temperatures cold or hot have no adverse effect. EcoSoya™ waxes may be used frozen and if partially melted, allow them to cool and re-solidify before use.

Containers
Containers should be clean and room temperature. No container preheating is necessary.

Color
Most any dyes work with EcoSoya™; powder, liquid, chips, blocks, etc. Pigments do not dissolve in EcoSoya™. When using powder dyes heat the wax to 190°F, add the dye and mix until dissolved. Powder dyes may also be dissolved in fragrance and then added to the melted wax, be sure the dye has dissolved completely before adding. When using powder dyes dissolved in fragrance, liquid dyes, color blocks, chips or no dye heat the wax to 155°F. If you wish to make your candle darker or “richer” add a little black dye to the color you are using.

Fragrance
EcoSoya™ Container waxes may be used with most any fragrance. Maximum fragrance and essential oil load recommendations: CB-135 & CB-Pure Soy - 10 to 12%, CB-Advanced Soy - 6 to 10%. Burn pool size and depth greatly affect scent throw. Strive for a full diameter pool with a depth of ¼ to ½ inch within a 4-5 hour burn time, (see Wicking). Some fragrances may react poorly with the wax causing bleed, objectionable frosting, or poor flame quality; try a different fragrance or manufacturer to eliminate it.

Wicking
EcoSoya™ soy waxes require larger wick sizes than paraffin and burn more down than out allowing them to have longer burning periods. A general rule of thumb is to have a full burn pool ¼ to ½ inch deep, from side to side in about the same number of hours as the number of inches the diameter of the container is. For Example: An Apothecary jar with a diameter of 4 inches should achieve a burn pool depth of ¼ to ½ inch, side to side, within about 4 to 5 hours. Too large of a wick will produce deeper, quicker burn pools but may also cause sooting and short burn times. The following table suggests wick types and sizes to begin testing with, adjustments may be needed. Keep wicks trimmed to ¼ inch. If you experience poor flame quality or stability, try a different type of wick. Test burning should be done after the candle has had a chance to sit for 48 hours after puring. Wicks such as paper cored, cotton cored or metal cored should be avoided as they tend to cause sooting and carbon build up.
CONTAINER SIZE INITIAL WICK SUGGESTIONS TO BEGIN TESTING
Wick sizes and types to try are not limited to those listed
Diameter:
1 to 2 inches HTP: 52
CD: 5 Eco: 2
RRD: 34 Flat Braid: 18
Square Braid:#4/0
Diameter:
2 to 3 inches HTP: 104 or 105
CD: 12 Eco: 6
RRD: 40 Flat Braid: 30
Square Braid: #1
Diameter:
3 to 4 inches HTP: 1212
CD: 20 Eco: 14
RRD: 50 Flat Braid: 60
Square Braid: #3 or #4
Diameter:
4 inches and larger Typically requires double wicking. Try using 2 wicks evenly spaced from the above 2 to 3 inch diameter table.


Melting
When using liquid, chip and block dyes or no dye at all, heat the wax to 155°F. For powder dye use, heat the wax to 190°F, add the dye and mix until dissolved. Temporary high temperatures such as 190°F have no adverse effect as long as the wax is cooled back down quickly. Higher temperatures may cause the wax to discolor. Allow the wax to cool to your desired pour temperature, add the fragrance and mix well. Be sure to stir/mix the wax while melting.

Pouring
As a generalization we suggest pouring at 125°F for most applications, this will vary according to container type & size, fragrance & dye used and the effects you want to achieve. Scent should be added and mixed right before pouring or at higher temperatures if desired. You can pour as low as 100° F if the wax is kept in motion (constant mixing) up until pouring. Lower pour temperatures help to eliminate possible frosting while producing a smooth top and good adhesion. There is a difference in cooling rates for different container configurations. Cooling too quickly or too slowly can cause concaving and/or frosting. Large jars such as the apothecary configurations cool slower and require lower pour temperatures, about 125° F or lower. Tall thin jars such as an 8 ounce jamming jar cool fast requiring a higher pour temperature, about 155° F. If you experience difficulties with your pour temperature try a lower or higher temperature in increments of 10°F.

Candle Cooling
Cool undisturbed candles at room temperature (about 70°F). The containers should be about 1/2 inch apart to allow air circulation for even cooling. The container should remain open during cooling, at least 24 hrs, (large candles, 2 lbs and greater may require longer times). Slower cooling will encourage container adhesion, while quicker cooling will encourage container pull-away. Candles should be allowed to sit undisturbed for 48 hours before test burning.

General Candle Making
Making a candle is a process of combining wax with dye, fragrance, container configuration and wick. All these components can have a dramatic effect on the wax and how the candle performs. Dyes and fragrances can react poorly with each other and cause problems with wicking. They can also react with the wax to produce undesirable effects in the wax.

Choose a container that you want to use for your candle. Pick and mix a dye with the wax that gives you the desired look, use a wick you think will burn well, (see Wicking). Then choose a fragrance and add it to the container, wax, dye and wick combination. Check the look and scent throw (both cold and hot) of the candle. If the look is off then you may need another type or manufacturer of dye or fragrance. If the scent throw is poor, try a different type of wick or a different type or manufacturer of fragrance. Fragrances vary from company to company; one company's vanilla may be different from another company’s vanillas.

Test Burn:Now check wicking. Test burn the candle for burn pool diameter and “mushrooming” after it has setup (cured or dried) for 48 hours. Mushrooming is when carbon and/or other substances build up on the end of the wick interfering with combustion. Mushrooming can cause sooting and off odors. Try different wicks until you have your desired burn pool diameter and a good clean flame. A general rule of thumb is to have a full burn pool ¼ to ½ inch deep, from side to side in about the same number of hours as the number of inches the diameter of the container.

Every combination of container, wax, dye, fragrance and wick must be tested for burn quality.

General Troubleshooting
If you experience a problem with your candle, try the following steps to isolate the cause. Whatever the issue may be it’s important that you test for only one variable at a time. This enables you to isolate the cause of your problem. Variables include but are not limited to the container, wax, dye, fragrance, wick, pour temperature and even environmental conditions such as cooling temperature.
First make a candle in the container with only the wick (no dye or fragrance). If it looks good then the wax is performing normally.
Then one at a time change a variable. Try adding the dye without fragrance to the container, wax and wick. If it looks good and burns well the dye is compatible with the wax.
Try adding the fragrance without dye to the container, wax and wick. If it looks good and burns well the fragrance is compatible with the wax.
Try the dye and fragrance together with the container, wax and wick. If it looks good and burns well the dye/fragrance combination is compatible with the wax.
If you are experiencing burn problems, try a different type or size of wick.
Other variables to try are different pouring and cooling temperatures and even different containers.
Be sure all equipment and materials are contaminant free. This can be a lot of work but you will find the cause of your problem. Be sure to record all your testing and results. When you do find the cause, substitute a different type or manufacturer of that component until you achieve your desired results.
The above suggestions are only suggestions, your results may vary. Testing and experimenting are the only way to achieve the effects and results you desire. Be sure to follow all safety precautions and directions recommended by the manufacturer of the tools, materials and equipment you use. We welcome your comments and suggestion.